GOVERNMENT PROBE WELSH DROUGHT SHOCK

Early morning starts have never really agreed with me, however a 9.30 meeting in Leeds meant I could bunk off from work early, and have a fair chunk of the journey finished before breakfast – it also meant a different approach to Wales from the usual slog along the A5 - the route in via Colwyn Bay gives great views of the foreboding black clouds hanging over the Snowdonia range.

By the time I arrived at the campsite at about 4 however the clouds had largely cleared. The others weren't due to arrive until the following morning, so I decided to set up camp then take the scramble up the North Face of Tryfan to pass time. Setting off at my usual mountain pace, I quickly realised just how little effect all those sessions at the gym really have – however I was determined to reach the top in time emulate those BT adverts and call the office from the top of the mountain to gloat. Arriving with five minutes to spare, having met nobody on the way up, I was greeted with the sight of the only occupant at the top just leaving. I had the top completely to myself for about twenty minutes will fantastic views over the Carnedau, the Glyders and the Ogwen valley, the peace only being disturbed at the end by a couple of climbers topping out on one of the long mountain routes coming up the east face from Heather Terrace.

The following morning I drove down to Llanberis to meet up with Martin and Andy (DB) for breakfast at Pete' Eats, and for the obligatory gear shop traverse. Pete's teas and breakfasts plus dark clouds over the Llanberis pass aren't exactly inspiring to long hard walk ins, so at Martin's suggestion we moved to the perpetual sunshine and roadside decadence of Tremadog.

We set up camp at Eric's café, sorted out the gear then set off for the rocks, by which time the clouds had cleared. Starting easily, we climbed "Valerie" (S), emerging from the treetops into brilliant sunshine, returning to Eric's for much needed refreshments, before moving on to "Smarter than the average bear" (HVS or VS depending on which guidebook you're using) and finishing with Merlin Direct (HVS) which has some interesting jamming moves in the top pitch to get Andy prepared for his move to the Peaks in the autumn.

Saturday evening saw Martin either being very generous or maybe just desperate for a pizza driving round to a pub in Rhyd Ddu, which does excellent pizzas and sticky toffee puddings on top of a fine selection of ales.

The following morning dawned with more of the hot, dry shiny Welsh rain that we had seen all through Saturday. Roger and his nice shiny brand new rack came over from visiting relatives and after a leisurely breakfast, we slapped the sun cream on and dived back into the Jungle at the foot of the crag and getting completely lost in the process of finding the chosen climbs - which seems to be fairly usual for this crag.

Roger and I opted (together it seemed with just about everyone else at Tremadog) went for "Xmas Curry" (S) – with me lacing as much gear as possible so as to give Roger's gear that authentic, professional used look, followed by Oberon (VD) which is described as having an awkward finishing crack; it has - not hard, just awkward…. Martin and Andy went for the harder option with "One step in the clouds" (VS) followed by "Striptease" (HVS) with more practice at hand jams for Andy.

All in all despite the low turnout we had a great weekend, with brilliant sunshine nearly all the way through – it just goes to show you can't always trust Michael Fish – particularly when he's talking about weather.

Jim