NORTH WALES

Just you don't love those early Saturday morning starts, that are almost a prerequisite for avoiding Friday afternoon traffic queues – especially after a very poor nights sleep!

Anyway I lest Farnborough at 4.00am to drive the wrong way round the M25 to collect Andy [donkey boy] Chapman from Horsham. The journey to Snowdonia was uneventful at we met up with Jim in Pete's eats at 10.00am. After the obligatory big breakfast and gear shop traverse it was off to Tremadog as there was drizzle in the pass.

On the other side of Snowdon the weather was fine and after pitching our tents at Eric Jones campsite, we ascended "Valerie's rib" {HS} a pleasant 2-pitcher with all the main difficulties located on the 1^st few metres of the 1^st pitch. Andy led the 1^st and Jim the second – an enjoyable route.

After milkshakes [hmm lime is great] at the café, we wandered down to the end of the far end of the crag, where Andy led the delicate 1^st pitch of Smarter than the average bear [HVS], I led the slightly longer 2^nd.

Our final route of the day was Merlin Direct [HVS], as there was somebody on the new 5a start we used the old older 4c start that is shared with Rieanetta. I led this, and then it was up to Andy to lead the much harder 5a 2^nd pitch, which he did in fine style. It was only after this that Andy announced that he had never led at HVS before. [Well I thought that he had].

As it was now 9.00 PM we dashed back to the campsite, and I drove us to what is probably the best pub in the area the Cwellyn arms at Rhydd Ddu, where we drank fine real ales and ate fresh pizzas yum!

Sunday morning came around and, we were joined by Roger Williams, with his soon-to-be-scratched new gear. Jim and Roger teamed up to join the queues on Xmas curry [S], 4 pitches of delightful climbing and justifiably popular. Andy and myself climbed one step in the clouds [VS], which we climbed in 4 pitches, by splitting the 1^st to cut down on rope drag [only a single rope!]. Completed in blistering sunshine, with fantastic views over towards Porthmadog and with buzzards circling overhead Wales is GREAT when its like this.

After cold drinks at the café R & J went to do Oberon, while Andy and myself grunted, swore, and groaned our way up striptease. Graded at VS [what!] the 1^st pitch is a very physical affair and not for the faint hearted, and well led by Andy.

All this meant that we were late getting away [after dinner at the café of course].

An excellent weekend and thank you to Andy, Jim and Roger for your company.

Martin