You could argue that collecting 'E' points is never easy, unless of course you are one of those people that is dragged up them by over enthusiastic partners. This was what happened to me on the first few occasions, but things have been different in more recent years as I simply avoided extreme climbs altogether. That is until Rupert pointed me in the direction of Anniversary Arete, perhaps one of the easier E1s in the UK. That was last year. This year did not start too promisingly, until the F&M issue forced desertion to foreign climes where you often have to climb 'hard' or not at all.
Straight back from a Mallorcan experience, Sandy and I went to the Peaks and got straight into the classic VS and HVS grit routes at Stanage. Others nearby were climbing what appeared to be similar routes, but for some reason these were graded at E1. A quick look see was followed by the question can I do that? The answer was, well yes, I think so. So that was it then, we would do Easter Rib, 15m of E1, 5b, and a starred route at that. The guys in front placed hardly any gear and one muttered something about being a bit fingery and too much effort to place gear. Not my style of climbing thought I as off I set, since I like gear at regular intervals. Well there was certainly no pro on the first few metres, but then it was not really necessary as you pulled onto the steepening slab. Two bomber friends – a three and a 3.5 – protected the crux move and then my well used Alien came into play once again. Comforted by this small piece of technical wizzardry I padded up to the second break and more bomber friend placements (note not too many nuts on this route!). From here it was relatively plain sailing. Typical rounded gritstone cascades led to the top and the first E1 lead of the 2001 season on natural gear.
Maybe it was the technical gismos, maybe it was the finely honed skills founded on a week in Mallorca, but this appeared to be an 'easy' E1, and there must be many more out there for the aspiring extreme grade leader. More to the point though it was an excellent route, and it comes well recommended.
Derek 25th May 2001