While many East Grinsteadites were down at Cornwall at Easter I was fraternising with Gary (of Caucasus fame) and a few other loose attachments to the Fell & Rock Club. With guaranteed access to the CIC Hut the intention had been to winter climb on the Ben; and to be fair we did get Tower Scoop, Good Friday Climb and Castle Ridge done over two days. The unseasonably mild weather though necessitated a change of venue, first to Polldubh in Glen Nevis, but more sensationally to the Etive Slabs (in Glen Etive surprisingly). Not getting off to a very early start, our choice at Etive was limited, but Steve and Pete, the other pair, had their sights on the 230m two star HVS on the right called Ba. Through severe lack of initiative Gary and I decided to join them as a separate rope of two. Almost from the outset route finding was a problem – or at least it was for Steve.
After the first 4c pitch, which was probably one of the driest on the route, Steve led off for team 1 and seemed to meander all over the slabs in search of the route. In fact, with a full 50m run out meander all over the slabs was exactly what he did do! Waiting patiently for my turn to lead it was interesting to note the variety of possibilities that existed on pitch 2. Having carefully observed Steve's antics, my own path was more direct – but no more protected. Pitch 3 was relatively straightforward, a direct ascent of the slab, which Pete managed with no digressions. Gary followed in inimitable style, followed by yours truly.
Pitch 4 should have been easy; a short unprotected traverse left followed by the ascent of an overhanging corner. At least there was protection there in the form of an in situ peg. Not content with simply clipping the (old) peg Steve also inserted a friend above it (in the only good available hand-hold!). Rather unfortunate this, since when he fell off the friend inflicted its revenge by lacerating his left hand. On the third (or was it fourth?) attempt he surmounted the obstacle in superlative style, peddling up the slippery layback like a man demented. Meanwhile myself, Gary and Pete enjoyed the show. Having seen the problems, and not inserting the friend, I managed this short pitch without injury, but there were clearly major problems ahead. The next pitch was WET, descending, and had an alarming drop should a slip occur. But worse still, the belay was genuine crap – a friend and rock placement in a decidedly flexible crack.
Having clipped onto Steve's harness (not recommended technique under any circumstance, and certainly not this particular one) we watched Pete try to circumvent the slippery pitch by directly climbing the left headwall. Lack of gear and holds was causing him problems, and we all kept looking at the dodgy belay. With the prospect of a fall onto our tenuous belay a solution to the dilemma was urgently sought. With Gary still on the previous stance, I led off further up the steep slab until roughly level with Pete to where a single nut placement looked possible. Forget the fact that it was inserted sideways; at least it didn't rock and it certainly seemed to withstand a downward load. So here we all were, me, Steve and Pete all attached to this one secure nut on a decidedly steep slab!
The next move is also certainly not in the recommended list of climbing procedures. Leaning over from my stance I just managed to pass Pete a sling so that pulling against me was able to jump back onto the main slab. With relief all round – and grateful for a four man team – Pete tackled the only alternative. Cautiously down climbing the wet slab he reached the lower corner of the wall that was the scene of the above debacle, inserted an alien (I'm quite impressed with these having fallen on one earlier at Polldubh) and elegantly crossed to a slimy crack leading to the next stance. With bomber gear placements he soon surmounted this indescribable obstacle and Gary was brought up to follow through. Steve went next, leaving you know who to complete the pitch with nothing to prevent flying over the edge should a slip occur. Needless to say, I didn't slip!
Pitch 6 now and its getting a trifle cold – and late. Steve was having more route finding problems, but eventually forged a way with some protection rather high on the slab. When it came to my turn to lead the absence of any small friends (Gary ought to ask for some for his next birthday) made Steve's route virtually suicidal. It was steep, holdless (ie needed good friction), wet in places and took the full 50m runout, with most of it a horizontal traverse. A lower route was eventually found (probably the correct way for a 5a pitch) and occasional gear placements were located. The belay stance was reached with some relief. By the time Gary had been brought up the other pair had moved on. Gary thus had the joy of climbing yet another steep, wet pitch to reach the final headwall. Judging by his comments he really enjoyed this pitch, particularly the safety of the secure tree that formed the belay.
Finale. The other pair was now at the top as I attempted the final vertical crack. Having slipped off on the first go a little friendly advice directed me to the easier start (it was almost 7.00 pm for heaven's sake) and the crack was a real delight and a sharp contrast to earlier pitches. A really magnificent route, but it is recommended in somewhat drier conditions than those that we encountered.
Derek 21st April 1999
DISCLAIMER. Some of the techniques described above are not recommended procedures, but they may get you out of trouble – or into it, depending on your point of view.