THE PORTLAND PROJECT:

This story begins some time towards the beginning of last year with my first visit to the place they call Portland. It was a day spent climbing at the cuttings within the company of Pete and Angela (and yes I hear you ask this is the trip that earnt Pete the honour of receiving the wings award, but that's another story.) This was not only my first trip to Portland but my first trip at climbing on bolts, so I was duly sent up The Sod which was fine no probs there, but on the way down I spotted the line of bolts to my right and a line that was just calling to me to be climbed but a quick look at the guide book soon put me off of doing such a stupid thing so we moved on, but the seeds of temptation had been sown and the route would be remembered for another day.

TIME PASSES. and some time in the summer I was lucky enough to sneak away for a day trip with Roger this involved a very quick top roping attempt at the route to the right of The Sod, Mindmeld. I didn't even come close to nailing but wow what a route, the appetite was wetted and there was no way this route would not get done......... one day.

THE PRESENT.. OK as most of you know Darren and myself have recently come back from a 3 week climbing trip that mainly involved climbing on bolted Limestone, and with the weather being as good as it has been in recent weeks it was time for the first trip of the year to Portland with the visions of coming and conquering Mindmeld. The weather was not as good as it could have been but considering it was the middle of Feb. we couldn't really complain to much, so the five of us Stuart, James, Gareth, Amanda and myself set about warming up and getting into the swing of things couple of climbs latter and I was ready to go for it... could I do it??

Ha fat chance if it spat me of once it spat me of countless times, but having sussed out all the moves and feeling dejected and suffering from a lack of skin on fingers it was time to call it quits on climbing it this time but this just made me more confidant.. (some people call it pig ignorance) same thing really.

THE FOLLOWING WEEK(1).. the weather was perfect for climbing so Tony, Agg, Darren and myself went to Portland, Thinking to myself that this was the day when it would go I was psyched and ready to attack, a quick warm up lead and Bam I was going to do it I could visualise it, taste it, in my head it was done,... Did I do it???

Did I F**k,

this climb was beginning to become a bit of a nemesis I could get through the first crux but I would run out of steam going through the second... Oh to be weak and feeble it was pathetic, If you were there you would have seen a grown man cry. 2nd attempt.. run out of steam, 3rd attempt.. run out of steam, there wasn't a 4th attempt as even I was beginning to think this is a bit like dogging a route, so Darren and myself went of to play on the boulders instead.

THE FOLLOWING WEEK(2).. Right, OK, for the last two weeks I have been doing nothing other then thinking about this climb and how it has chewed me up and spat me out, this was going to be it, this was going to be the week that I got it and If I didn't then that was it I wouldn't go near it for 6 months. So Eddie, Jo, Amanda and myself set off for, yes you've guessed another day trip to the cuttings. Same routine as last time, a quick warm up and then attack. OK I'm at the bottom of Mindmeld feeling good, I pull through the first couple of moves no problem, get to the first crux no problem feeling good have a quick chalk up and reach the next crux, pulling of two crimps and pushing off of two smears I go for the top hold and catch it but just barely, can I get my feet up???

See last weeks answer.

OK now I'm feeling a might peed off as you do, I come down and strip the climb sitting at the bottom seething and staring at the problem as if that's going to make it easier. A quick breather and I was ready to go again, ( talk about putting a square peg in a round hole ), this was it the last attempt for glory before turning my back on the cursed climb. As before the first few moves felt good, the first crux felt good, a bit more chalk, take the crimps and smears and Bam pop for the top.. Did I make it??

Finally Yes I made it with a big cheesy grin plastered all over my face. At last I could rest in peace and relax, but what did I spy as I was walking along the bottom past one of the arrets but a new project, a look in the guide book and I'm thinking I may be here some time. See you in 6 months or a year or maybe 2 or possibly 3

Mark