I'm not really too sure where the original Great North Road is anymore, but I have had designs on the Millstone version for some years now. This compelling line takes the superb corner to the left of the obvious cracks of the Embankment slabs, and at HVS 5a is a gritstone classic pioneered by none other than Joe Brown way back in the late 1950s. The question has always been do I have the psyche and strength to lead it? This issue faded into oblivion, however, after Rob, John Temple and myself spent a week of hard climbing in Mallorca, which I quickly followed by three days in the Peaks with Sandy Sharp. After a day spent on Stanage and the morning at Rivelin, we were ready for the challenge – and what's more, it was my lead!
The route starts easily enough with a short wander up the left-hand slab followed by a short traverse to join the corner proper. With bomber gear placements the first strenuous overhang is surmounted and is immediately followed by a committing layback to the second overhang. A few small ledges on the left wall provide welcome relief from pumping arms and, more importantly, another opportunity to place some solid gear. Dawdling under the second overhang was not a good idea, but I did rather fancy some pro before committing myself to yet another exposed layback. Fortunately a number 3 nut fits snugly under the lip and protects the pull into the final corner. At this stage most of the hard work is over and victory can be sensed. Delightful bridging, a celebratory smile down to partner, and then a cruise to the top to complete what must be the best climb of its grade in Britain. How many stars? Well the guide gives it three, but I reckon it should be 5.
Derek 25th May 2001