May Bank Holiday – 2001 The Gower
After many cancellations and changes of plan EGCC was finally having an away meet, hurrah. So after finishing my shift it was off to Jenny's gaff for a few hours kip on her sofa before an early start.
We had arranged to meet Graham Siggers at the campsite in Port Eynon He was already set and smiling be the time we arrived. A few frantic phone calls to Jay and Sarah, - who were staying in Swansea [Jay's hometown], and arrangement was made to climb at 3 cliffs bay. The route of note at this crag is "scavenger"; there was a queue about 6 parties deep, so I elected to lead an 11m V-Diff called wall climb, which everybody duly followed me up on.
With an encroaching tide and still crowds on scavenger I decided to have a crack at an HVS: Inverted V graded at 4c as there ain't a lot of gear, except small nuts until you pass the small overhang at ¾ height. Others followed, all agreed that it was a nice route.
Incoming sea meant that it was wet feet time, for the walk back to the car park, gear shop traverse and visit to a pub where we were joined by Jay's parents. All in all a great day on perfect rock in brilliant sunshine.
Back to the campsite for showers then a short walk to Port Eynon to a small seedy-looking restaurant for a not bad dinner, tall stories, people watching etc. Later we ventured into port Eynon's only pub… the ship inn its VERY tacky, the walls drip sweat, the windows are shaped as portholes and the beer was foul. Never the less the three of us managed to contrive a good time.
Sunday came around [what no hangover's] are we drove to the pretty beach at Oxwich bay, for the 30-minuite walk to the Great Tor area [or it would have been had Graham not set off in the wrong direction. Luckily Jay came to our rescue, before he and Sarah vanished off to a Gig].
The Tors are 3 distinct limestone crags the can be climbed 3-4 hours either side of low tide, great tor is the largest, and received our 1st visit. 1st lead was by graham "y" crack [VD], Jenny went up 2nd and I was tail end charlie. Jenny took the next lead – Holey Wall [VD]. Seconded by Graham with me last. My lead was a challenging little number, small holds and small gear – bubbly wall [HVS5a].
Retreating from the crag due to the incoming tide, we retreated to the little tor where Jenny lead the very slippery Scout crack [s], then we all retreated, by wading around the headland, and back along the sandy beach to the car. Another fantastic day, with perfect rock and fabbo weather.
Deciding to eat at the campsite the 3 of us joined forces to produce a communal meal. Washed down by beer, a bottle of wine [each] and some of Grahams special coffee [3 mugs some coffee, some milk, some hot water, and a 1/2 bottle of whiskey], and a liberal sprinkling of good conversation.
Monday morning arrived along with Jenny's excellent fried egg sani's and lordy lordy – no hangover's. So it was 3 happy, somewhat sunburned climbers who headed back to Oxwich for some unfinished business at the Tor's.
We had decided to have a crack at what is possible the only multi-pitch route on the Gower: The East Ridge on great tor. Officially it's a V-Diff, but you can throw in some VS4c variations. I took the first lead, Jenny took the 2nd, linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches together, retrieving some gear for a party of incompetents in front of us. Graham led the final [necky for the grade] 4th pitch. It's a fine route with fine views – well worth the walk.
Moving back to the little tor Graham Twinkle [VD] & Jenny led Stella VS4c – in fine style, as the route is steep, and bold.
Unfortunately it was time to leave, pack up tents, & go home, [via the inevitable pub in Swansea for supper]. A fine weekend and an excellent start to the season.