Valentine's Day 2001

Several days were spent establishing exactly who would be my partner for this special sunny day in February. This included approaching two Marks (one was having furniture delivered, the other, most commendably, had to be back early to be with his Mrs) and Angie (who by some strange quirk was actually working that day) and tackling Sarah's mum, who was adamant that Sarah would be working and could not be persuaded to do otherwise. Eventually I contacted Derek, who, on a rare visit to this country, was more than happy to come out to play at a moment's notice.

Portland was the obvious choice at this time of year, and we hatched a plan that would ensure maximum warmth at all stages. This started with a fry-up in the Sugar Loaf café in Easton (a useful venue that opens early except on Sundays). I'd always fancied pottering around on the big boulders at the foot of Blacknor edge, on the western side of Portland. Being detached and some way from the main cliff, most of the routes get the sun early, so we started here by ticking a couple of extremely pleasant slabby six bolt severes (Fallen Slab and Arete). An ideal place to try leading with an easy approach, its by the sea for an added sort of sea cliff experience, and there's more of the same a bit further along the boulder beach. Next up was a harder offering round the corner which hadn't quite warmed up - neither had I, so a fairly desperate chilly struggle ensued on what turned out to be one of those "sportingly" bolted routes you encounter now and again (Le Cranium Casse, 6a+, but felt E2). By this time the sun was on the main edge, so we moved back up the slope to tick off Well Done Poppet (4) and Do Ixtlan (5), both done in T-shirts, basking in the Spring-like sunshine.

As usual with Portland, its easy to move between crags, so on we went to Battleship to round the day off with what I knew was the easiest and friendliest 6a around - Pinch an Inch - slightly off vertical jug pulling, with good friction, bolts up your proverbial and a huge double handed jug to clip the lower-off. What more can you ask for from a bolt route? It also just about counts as E1 which may come in useful when finalising the "E" total at the end of what promises to be fairly dismal year - sad git or what!

Not particularly prolific route-wise, but we both sat in the late afternoon sunshine, reflecting on one of those special days snatched from nothing - hardly anyone about, warm rock, calm sea and a good start to the season. Winter is probably the best time of year to climb on Portland and it is quite possible to climb at your limit all year round, especially if you choose your crags carefully. Valentine's Day is always a good bet if you want it quiet, and thinking back, Mother's Day isn't bad if you only climb at weekends! (NOT TO BE READ BY DIANNE)

Rupert