Despite a mixed weather forecast for the Club meet to the Peak District in October ten hardy souls nevertheless took their chances and descended on the Climbers Club hut at Froggatt, or sampled the alternative delights offered by a B&B in Hathersage. Saturday, predicted to be overcast and showery, lived up to the reputation of British weather forecasters for accuracy by being one continuous deluge and with visibility severely limited. While good news for the aquatic fraternity this somewhat restricted the activities of ardent climbers who, with one notable exception (John Temple for those that don't know), prefer their rock free of running water. Undaunted, however, most (Andrew, Clare, Colin, Lee, Nick and Rupert) attacked the Sheffield climbing walls, while Harvey, Lynne, John and myself practised our endurance and navigational skills by making a round trip via Higger Tor to the Fiddler's Elbow. Needless to say, the battle of Goretex versus the elements was hard fought, but the result was a forgone conclusion.
Sunday, by contrast, was like an overnight emigration to southern France. The sun shone and the sky was clear. Lynne complained about the fresh breeze and dressed for arctic conditions, but despite this we all assembled at High Neb, Stanage for what turned out to be an excellent day's climbing. Old favourites like Inaccessible Crack, Limbo, Norse Corner Climb, Gunter, Eckhard's Arete, Tango Buttress and many others fell thick and fast as one rope after another tackled these popular routes. Everyone seemed to be doing very well, the newer members Andrew, Clare and Lee, particularly so. Norse Corner Climb (HS, 4c) seems to be getting harder by the year with John getting the 'first blood' award trying to leave the ground, although Nick romped up it without even a second glance. High Neb Buttress was also the scene of numerous ascents, but none so spectacular as that by Andrew, who clearly thought testing a wobbly friend by lobbing off from three-quarter height was all part of the EGCC initiation programme. Little did he know that the real test is to fall off without any gear in the first place! Meanwhile I was proving that I wasn't really a 5b climber by desperately hanging onto the nose of Jeepers Creepers while wondering where the heck you are supposed to put your feet! Why is it, I wonder, that roofs always appear smaller when viewed from the ground than when suspended by rebelling fingers some 40 feet up? Still I can't be all that bad since Nick climbed up, had a quick look and immediately downclimbed, despite my proven bomber gear.
Still trying to test the 5b hypothesis Nick and I moved on to Overcoat, an innocuous looking overhang topped by a vertical groove just above. Having both failed to lead on this one it eventually succumbed (very inelegantly) using a top rope! By this stage Rupert had returned with the news that there was an easy 5b, albeit E1, a little further on and that the protection was excellent. And so Anniversary Arete was, up until the crux move. Rupert seemed to have got gear in to protect the move into the scoop near the top, but I had no such luck and my last pro was closer to my ankles than I would have liked. However, after a few up and downs, just to test the lay of the land you understand, I had the crucial hold and cleanly completed the route. An E1 climber I hear you all say? No such luck, this was an 'easy' 5b so I suppose that I will have to keep on trying.
Derek 9th October 2000