Alps 2000
It's getting late and we are stuck in a traffic jam trying to get onto the M25. With time pressing on it is beginning to look as though the plan to limit the wait at Dover is seriously flawed. After what seems an age, however, the logjam releases and we find that we have marginally over one hour to meet up with Harvey, Lynne and Nick and catch the ferry to Calais. Supersonic driving by Steve saves the day as we drive onto the ferry just as the bow doors close behind us - so any chasing police cars won't catch as now!
After a 13 hour drive we arrive in Pontresina in south-east Switzerland and quickly check the weather forecast. It looks good so John, Steve and I decide to move up into the Albigna valley ready for an early start the next day. The others are still tired from the journey and decide to follow us up later. Just catching the last cable car we arrived with all our gear for several days and find a suitable spot on which to pitch the tent. Early next day we set off to climb Punta da l'Albigna (2,824m) by the Mueli route, but several pairs have got there beforehand and we opt for the harder Steiger route (D+). Off route from the start the climbing was about 4b rather than VD, but we eventually approximate to the correct line and arrive at the col. It's a little late, but we still decide to complete the NW ridge (AD) to the summit, and arrive there just in time to see storm clouds rapidly approaching. Time to get off as rain, thunder and lightning surround us. Pointed peaks are not good places to be in such circumstances, but fortunately the storm is short lived and we are relatively dry by the time we arrive back in camp to meet the others. They were late arriving due to the Swiss siesta, but still managed a walk up to the Val della Neve pass.
There is confusion the next day as we all decide what to do, but eventually we break into two groups. Stuart, Harvey, Nick and myself chose the East Ridge of Piz Frachiccio (2,905m, Grade III) where we enjoyed a long, but relatively straightforward rock climb to the airy summit. The way off is not too obvious, but in the end we opt for the South Face which offers the shortest way to easy ground. John, Lynne and Steve chose to climb the Fiamma on Spazzacaldeira (Grade V/V+), a sharp rock pinnacle illustrated on local postcards and posters. An exciting lead by Steve led the intrepid trio to the lofty apex.
An early start next day as John and Steve leave for the long climb to the Ago di Sciora (3,205m) by it's South Face (AD) while Nick and I head for the South Ridge of Piz Balzet (2,869m, Grade IV). The early start pays off as we beat others to the route and have a fine day climbing the exposed ridge in superb surroundings. Turning the crux tower near the summit looked entertaining until the 'hidden' hold was found and we were soon joining other parties who had summitted by the shorter and easier East Ridge. Two short abseils and a chossy gully later and we were back to easy ground. Later Lynne, Harvey, Stuart and Hugh (who we met at Pontresina) also did this route, but snow patches on many of the ledges following an intervening storm made some of the pitches somewhat exciting. While we were on Balzet, Lynne, Harvey and Stuart chose a shorter day cragging near the tents before joining Nick and I to return briefly to Pontresina.
With bad weather only two day's away Nick and I drove off early next day to Bondo in order to walk to the Sasc Fura Hut. Payment of 10 SF shortened the walk in significantly by allowing us to use the private road, but the hour and a quarter steep climb with heavy packs was still an effort. At the hut, however, we were rewarded with fine views of our next objective - the long North Ridge of Piz Badile (3,308m, D-). This Alpine classic is extremely popular and we left early the next morning to try and avoid the crowds. Although the second group on the route, several parties soloing the first few pitches caused a little chaos until we gradually thinned out along the ridge. Superb climbing on excellent rock led inexorably to the summit (7 hours of climbing plus 1.5 hours to the start of the route), and we still had to get off before the bad weather closed in. Teaming up with a German party to expedite the abseil descent proved to be a farce and we eventually made our own way down. Twenty or more 50m abseils takes a long time, but fortunately the rope only jammed once and was easily freed after short prussic protected re-ascent. Being met by torrential rain about half way down increased the excitement of the descent, especially when the ridge turned into a raging torrent and water formed bow waves over our rock boots. Fortunately the lightning stayed well and truly in the distance (as predicted by the hut guardian). Reaching the bottom 6 hours after beginning the descent we could still see the German team high on the ridge and were glad that we opted for an independent return. It seemed unlikely that they would be down before dark, if at all that night! Back at the hut we opted for another night's stay and the luxury of a hut prepared meal before returning to Pontresina the next day.
Meanwhile John and Steve had had a good day climbing the short North Face of the Cima Del Cantun (3,354m, AD+) while Harvey and Stuart opted for an ascent of Piz Morteratsch (3,751m) by its North Ridge (PD-).
With bad weather over the whole region we were all back together in Pontresina wondering what to do next. A mass exodus from the camp site (including the occupants of the large tent that we were using as our social gathering place) prompted a decision to move to Vicosoprano which was lower and thus likely to be warmer. The attractive young lady on the reception desk helped to confirm that this was the place that we (i.e. the men) wanted to stay and it was not surprising that several of the party seemed to find a good reason for frequent visits to the reception.
As the weather improved John, Steve, Nick and myself moved back into the Albigna Valley and crossed over the Zocca pass with a view to attempting the South Ridge of Punta Rasica. A long arduous journey over the chaotic moraine led eventually to the Allievi Hut from where it was clear that the bad weather had deposited large amounts of snow on the rock route that we had planned. Undaunted, John and Steve claimed a 20 hour epic by ascending to the Rasica Col and climbing the North West Ridge of Torrione Occidentale (AD), but Nick and I opted for the return to the Albigna Valley. While there we climbed the classic Mueli Route on Punta Albigna (AD+), where by chance we met Stuart and Hugh on the first stance. Harvey and Lynne, on the other hand, had opted for a rest day after climbing Piz Balzet and then had a day cragging with Stuart and Hugh at nearby Villa di Chiavenna. After spending the night in the Albigna Hut, Nick and I completed the classic traverse of La Vergine (2,708m) and Al Gal (2,774m, Grade IV+). The final climb to the airy summit of Al Gal was an exciting climax, which is thoroughly recommended.
Back at Vicosoprano we planned our last forays. Steve, Stuart, Nick and I intended to climb Piz Bernina (4,049m) the highest mountain in the area and so took the cable car to Diavolezza for the long walk in to the crowded Marco e Rosa Hut. An early start the next day got us to the summit via the South East Ridge (PD) in 1.5 hours and gave ample time to return to the valley via the Diavlolezza. Our original hope to climb Piz Bernina by the more entertaining Biancograt was abandoned after seeing the copious snow on this classic ridge. Indeed, it appeared that nobody had completed this route over the last few weeks for the same reason. While were on Piz Bernina Harvey and Lynne climbed Corn Boval (3,081m) by it's East Ridge (PD) and John and Hugh climbed the Flat Iron Ridge on Pizzi Gemelli (TD-).
And so ended a productive 2 weeks in the Bregaglia and Bernina regions, although a hardy few spent several hours cragging before the long drive home.
Derek 15th August 2000