Playing with the big boys

Saturday, Tremadog, Sunshine, perhaps not the best time for me to attempt my first E1, however my mood was good and sprits were high. Jo and myself thrashed through the undergrowth and up the steep path to the Shadrach Buttress to climb: Grim Wall Direct. The climb is bounded on the left by Vector Buttress and its mega hard routes and on the left by such middle grade classics as Shadrach and Meshach.

Grim wall direct is an eliminate that takes the left side of a steep wall. Pitch One (100 ft 5b) begins with a striated crack. I began climbing in the blazing sun and arranged some good gear. The first crux was about 12ft off the deck. I dithered over this for about five minutes before down climbing for some more water. I removed my helmet to find the felt pads soaked in sweat. It was hot! Back on the rock the first crux was passed by a crafty smear on the right up to where the angle of the rock eased. I moved diagonally left and delicately over a yawning gap up and over a bulge. Delicate moves up a slab followed. I had to use an RP in anger for the first time to protect the slab before moving onto easier ground. The finial difficulty is the finial move (unless you are tall) up a small wall and to a tree belay. Once I had focused it all went surprisingly well. After no time at all Jo joined me at the belay. A short discussion about the gear, all bomber, except for the RP that fell out.

Pitch Two (80ft 5b) This started hard as the weather closed in. Some delicate foot moves to gain some height. Get an undercut for the right hand, arrange 3 good nuts, pad up to a tiny 2 fingered hold for the left hand, straighten the legs and go for the right hand jug before gaining a good foot ledge. Arrange one more good nut before a hard move left moves to easier ground.

Back at the cafe near the campsite it began to sink in, I had just lead my first E1 on sight and apart from the first crux and retreat for water it was all in good style without hanging on the gear. I was elated!

After a shower it was off to the excellent Cwellyn Arms for dinner and then Llanberis to meet up with Eddie, Rupert, Colin and Danny who had been "up the pass" doing hard things.

Sunday found us at Dinas Mot in Llanberis Pass for the Direct Route (245 feet VS 4a, 4b, 4c, 5b) Jo and I alternated the leads with Jo ding the first and third, I lead the second but failed on the fourth. Its very polished and I felt completely insecure bridging up the smooth corner. Thank goodness for Eddie and is top rope.

All in all a fantastic weekend but I must make a mental note to select my 5b's carefully.

Martin