To some extent the guidebook is less than complementary, even suggesting man-eating nettles and other unsavoury nasties, but this limestone crag has a lot to offer in terms of climbing classics. The Russian, for example, now graded HVS, 5a, is a superb 30m climb up a steep crack line. Harvey struggled on lead, probably because he had used up a lot of energy on the earlier climb (Offspring, MVS, 4b in our old guide), and eventually admitted defeat after a death defying 6m lob around half way up. It was eventually led cleanly, but the steep crux was energetic and exciting. John Temple resorted to 'Alpine tactics' to complete the crux when he later attempted it with Lynne, and I only wish that I had had my camera ready to record the battle.
Offspring itself was not given any stars, but I would give it at least one. This route follows the twin corner cracks a little right of The Russian, and is certainly an energetic challenge for its grade (probably 4c at least in the new guide!). Take a lot of large gear though, like size 9 and 10 hexes, or simply rely on the chock stones just above mid height.
While John and Lynne flitted between the Hollow Rock Area and the Pinnacle, Harvey and I continued to sample the nearby classics. Tempted by the superb line of Golden Fleece (S, 4a) up the prominent diedre, Harvey led in good style, and Lynne did likewise later in the day. This route offers a direct continuation finish up the corner, and I recommend this over the alternative of the left wall.
Next door to Golden Fleece are two VS 4b's, and we chose Exchange (or a minor variant thereof) which takes the steep groove just left of the arête and continues direct to the top. A tremendous line; well worth two stars, rather than the one given in the guide. I'll come back for the second route (The Druid) another time. We then got tempted by what we called the garden traverse, but officially known as Peacock (MVS, 4b). Despite the vegetation, this route is much better than it looks, but needs more weeding than the small amount that I did to really reveal its true character. We climbed this on a single 11mm rope, which was a big mistake since the route takes a massive zigzag path up the cliff.
By this time John and Lynne had returned from their second foray to the Pinnacle and suggested that we should do what was formerly called The Prow (VS, 4b, **), but now known as Whiff (I prefer The Prow myself), on the river side of the Pinnacle. Apart from the messy access, this again was a stupendous route that takes the obvious well-used arête located after bushwhacking through the undergrowth. This is clearly an old route since there are lots of in situ pegs, all of which I gaily clipped en passant. Naturally, I also placed some of my own gear on lead! John seemed to treat these pegs with disdain, and paid the penalty by 'losing' a number 7 nut. Since he had acquired this from our sortie to the Old Man of Stoer I suppose it was simply a case of easy come easy go. Anyway, back to the climb. At around 25m the route boldly traverses left to a cave belay in a truly magnificent setting. It's hard to believe that the exit is through the overhang forming the roof of the cave, but it is! While waiting for Harvey to join me there was plenty of time to savour the exposed position and to speculate on the way out. Fortunately the overhang was easier than it looked, but despite John's comment that there were massive jugs, I thought that this was harder than the supposed 4b.
We still have lots to do on this relatively little visited crag; but where is it I hear you all say? Symonds Yat, a few miles further on than Shorn Cliff. An added benefit for the stingy, and that included us, is that you can go via Gloucester and save paying for the Severn Bridge!
Derek 14th June 2000