Aiguille d'Argentiére
Its April and Nick and I are off ski touring again in the Alps. This time the weather is literally crap. A quick visit to the Chamonix Meteorological Office confirms what we already knew, but adds the fact that the poor weather emanates from Portugal and that even the Pyrenees is having a bad time. So much for the alternative of going to the Ecrin or Bernese Oberland instead, we will just have to stick it out in the Chamonix Ski Station dortoire. Still there are lots of young Swedish girls here so life is not too unpleasant. After several short days piste skiing, the occasional half day ski tour and numerous expeditions to the climbing shops, the weather eventually improves. One of the key objectives is the Aiguille d'Argentiére (3,902m) on the true right hand side of the Argentiére Glacier, but we opt for a few days of further acclimatisation at the Refuge de Conscrits near Les Contamines. Here we traversed the DÔmes de Miage (3,673m) and climbed the Aiguille de la Bérangére (3,425m), both in superb conditions.
A few days later and the Aiguille d'Argentiére beckons. The forecast looks good and its all systems go. We get an early cable car to the top station of the Grands Montets and carefully make a descending traverse to the Argentiére Glacier. No problems here and we easily avoid the large crevasses en route. On the glacier floor we then ascend to just below the Refuge d'Argentiére. From here the route ascends the Glacier du Milieu, with the serac bands easily skirted on the left. At about two-thirds height we meet the deep and impressive bergshrund, where it is time to abandon skis. More competent skiers carry their skis from here so that they can ski down from just below the summit, but those of more modest ability (i.e. us) tend to continue up and down from here on foot. Front pointing was the order of the day, and about 400m of it at that, but 4.5 hours after leaving the Grands Montets we are on the summit admiring the extensive views. Dominant are the Aiguille Verte and the Dru (both still on our hit list), Mont Dolent (climbed last year) and, of course, Mont Blanc and its satellites (climbed several years ago).
But the snow is getting slushy and its time to descend. Crampon balling is a continuous pain, so its front pointing to descend as well. Added to this we have to watch for descending skiers, but they are good and give us plenty of clearance. Back at the skis we are on easier terrain, about 30 degrees, and even my skiing ability can now just about cope. Needless to say there is the odd bum plant, but what do you expect? Once on the Argentiére Glacier there is a little polling to be done before rejoining the Grands Montets pistes and the cable car back to the valley. But its quick and the entire journey has only taken 7 hours to reach a peak only marginally below the magic 4,000m and requiring over 1,400m of vertical ascent.
Derek 28th April 2000