VANOISE SKI TOUR
For those that have not previously visited this area the Vanoise National Park has much to offer in terms of isolated valleys, accessible ski peaks, varied wild life and well-equipped mountain huts. Having just joined the Eagle Ski Club I was therefore enthusiastic when given the chance in early March to join a trip to this area organised by Jeremy Whitehead, a well-known authority on the area. Jeremy had put together a flexible ski-touring programme that allowed members of our group (seven people aged between 30 and 70) to moderate their exertions according to their mood and inclinations.
After meeting at the Grande Motte ski station in Tignes Val Claret our party spent a few hours in glorious sunshine re-adjusting to life on skis, but without heavy packs, on the pistes of this popular ski area. We then made the 2 h ski descent from the intermediate cable car station to the Refuge de la Leisse (2,487m) in the Vallon de Leisse for our first night's stop. Not all of the facilities were operational in this hut, but it was not long before the wood burning stove was generating considerable heat and the evening meal was underway.
After a fairly leisurely start on day 2 we left the hut at 9.00 a.m. to make the straightforward ascent to the Col du Pierre Blanche (2,842m), which was reached in 2 h. Having spent a short while admiring the view we returned to the refuge for lunch before continuing on to the Refuge du Plan du Lac (2,384m) on the southern flanks of the Vallon de la Rocheure. While theoretically a short journey, this trip was not without incident and the refuge was not finally reached until darkness threatened at 7.30 p.m. Poor snow conditions had made the descent of the Vallon de Leisse slower than anticipated, and on reaching the bridge over the Torrent de la Rocheure some members of the party were beginning to feel the weight of their packs. Taking the direct route to the refuge, Andy and myself soon realised that we were separated from the main party and eventually descended to the valley floor as the sun sunk behind the neighbouring mountains. Fortunately there had been no major problem, the other party members having followed a longer but more gradual ascent to the refuge, hoping that the 'advance party' had started the tea! As it happened everyone arrived within a short time of each other and the more exhausted members immediately dived into bed. Once again the wood stove was quickly lit and the refuge was organised for our two-day stay.
On day 3 all but Dave and Nigel left at 9.45 a.m. to ski to the Pointe de Lanserlia. While initially a gentle slope this rapidly steepened to about 35o and became icy in parts. Nevertheless, after 2.5 hours we attained the south summit (2,875m) where we had excellent views as far afield as the Ecrin, Monte Viso and Mont Blanc. We originally planned to continue to Pointe du Grand Vallon, but with such a late start we eventually traversed the Lanserlia arete to the north summit (2,905m) for lunch. We then decided to descend via the south face to the plateau and then traverse northwards back to the refuge, which we reached at 4.00 p.m. In our absence Dave and Nigel had chopped copious supplies of firewood, made endless cups of tea and markedly improved the snow steps at the entrance to the refuge. Fortunately Nigel had now recovered from his bout of sickness the night before, but Dave was suffering from a gastrointestinal upset which was to last most of the trip.
The fourth day was to be an easy day. We left the refuge at 10.00 a.m. to descend to the Vallon de la Rocheure and then made the gradual ascent to the delightfully situated Refuge de la Femma (2,352m), which was reached at 2.45 p.m. Travelling in glorious sunshine, now beginning to be typical for this trip, we made several long stops en route to enjoy the valley and its surrounding shapely peaks. Many of these peaks are readily accessible on skis from the refuge, but time would only allow us to attempt but a few. On arrival at the refuge we followed the usual routine of starting the stove and brewing tea. The chopping party, consisting of Andy, Nick and Nigel, was particularly active while the others replaced lost fluids on the hut veranda.
An early start on day 5 saw all but Dave and Shaun leave at 8.00 a.m. to make the straightforward ascent of Pointe de Méan Martin (3,330m) at the head of the valley. The final steep ascent to the airy summit was made on foot and was reached at 11.45 a.m. Two French skiers arrived from the Refuge du Font des Fours soon after and were the only other people that we saw on the whole trip. A cold wind limited our stay on the summit and it was not long before we descended to our skis. At this point Andy and myself traversed to the Aiguille du Méan Martin (3,278m), once again making the very steep final, mixed ascent on foot, while the remainder returned directly to the refuge. Reaching the summit at 1.45 p.m. we briefly admired the fine views before retrieving skis and descending to the hut by 4.30 p.m.
The next day we left the refuge at 9.00 a.m. to ski up the valley to the Col du Pisset (2,958m) en route to the Refuge du Font des Fours (2,537m). At the col Andy, Shaun and myself decided to climb on foot to the rocky summit of the Pointe du Pisset (3,033m) by a rising traverse of its steep south-east ridge, while the rest continued on. The high point was reached at 12.30 p.m., but mist obscured the summit view. Rapidly descending we followed the others to arrive at the refuge at 2.45 p.m.
Next day we completed the one and a half-hour descent into Val d'Isère, where the tour officially finished. This was an extremely enjoyable trip and one that can be recommended to those thinking about their first Alpine ski tour.
Derek
15th march 2000