Nobody doubts the quality of ice climbing in Scotland – it can be some of the most demanding and climbers come from all over the world to hone their skills. But there is one problem; it rarely seems to be in good condition. What then is the answer? I suggest the Canadian Rockies. As members of the Climbers Club, John Temple and I went to Canmore, just south of Banff, in late February and were mesmerised by the quality and quantity of ice in the neighbourhood. Terry, our host, eased us in gently. The first day we visited an area called the Junkyard on the outskirts of Canmore. This is really a practice area created by the outflow from the local power station, but has large sheets of ice ranging between Grade 2 and 3 (Scottish III/IV). John and I climbed several routes here, gradually getting used to steep, high quality ice; all perfectly protectable. We did learn one thing, however, and that is that good quality ice screws are essential. We both went off to strip the local shops of Black Diamond ice screws – at £23 each!! (John even bought the ones with retractable handles – a luxury, and only £5 more).
Excited we looked forward to what our host suggested next – and we were not disappointed. In the morning we went to Grotto Falls, entering via a frozen river in a narrow canyon and climbing 55m of Grade 3 (Scottish IV) ice. Two free-standing pillars of higher grade were occupied by a climbing school so we left to go to nearby Heart Creek Falls. Here only two of the falls were in condition, but we had fun finding alternative routes on 40-45m of Grade 2/3 ice.
The next day we rose to even greater heights by going to Haffner Creek Ice Flows. This area is like fairyland, but made exclusively of ice. Being easy to get to it was a little crowded, but we climbed many routes of Grade 4/5, often using the ropes already set up by other members of our group. This was hairy stuff – vertical and overhanging ice for 20-25m. Certainly no place to have a confidence crisis – especially on lead!! The 'real' climbers (experts even by Canadian standards) were doing the mixed climbs of the type pioneered by Jeff Lowe. But ice tooling on dry overhanging rock is not for the faint hearted and John and I kept away. There were attractive chicks here also, for those feeling voyeuristic. But John and I were climbing like it had gone out of fashion. Seven routes here, and nothing less than Scottish V.
Then a pleasant surprise. Dave Roughley came over from Vancouver to join us for a few days. First an ice fall, and Terry recommended Massey's, just north of Lake Louise in the Yoho National Park. Well what can I say? 140m of Grade 4 ice (Scottish V) all in perfect condition. John got the first impressive lead, then me, followed by Dave. Wow, this has got to be seen to be believed, me thinking that I only climb Scottish IV on a good day, and here I am climbing and leading up to Grade VI. John is also climbing like a man possessed – most impressive!
Time for a day off skiing, especially as by coincidence Jenny (Buckle junior) was in Banff on a skiing holiday. So off we go to Lake Louise ski slopes for the day. The weather was rather ropy and the skiing expensive, so this was the least pleasurable day of the trip. However, the company (Jenny, Dave, John, Tony and Jenny's boyfriend) did it's best to compensate.
Back to the ice falls for the next day, and Terry has decided that we are good enough to try The Professor, one of the area's many classic routes. Being on the north face of Mount Rundle it is in impressive surroundings, but lots of surface water (very cold!) put several of our group off. But not the intrepid trio – we carry on regardless of icy water pouring out of every orifice from the hood down. Well, 280m of Grade 4 (Scottish V) isn't seen every day and we had spent an hour and a half walking in. Alternating leads we spent a long time on the falls and even as a rope of three we were keeping ahead of the others. It was rather surprising nonetheless that after completing the impressive final pitch we found that we were on our own to make our way down. After a bit of floundering around we came to the conclusion that abseiling was the only realistic way off and it was getting rather late. We dug out the Abalakov anchor (A cord passed through two 90 degree tubes made using ice screws) and backed it up with an ice screw and tape and began the descent. From here on there were fixed anchor points, so no need to lose any more gear on the way down. It was pretty dark by the time we got back to the car and we were pleased that the others had waited to take us back.
The next day Dave had left and we decided on a more accessible climb. Unfortunately this also means more busy and on Pretty Nuts (180m of Grade 4) we met our first objectionable North Americans. After first complaining that we should not climb at the same time as them (rather unreasonable on a waterfall over 50m wide) they eventually traversed above our belay and proceeded to bombard us with ice. A particularly large piece nearly broke my leg, causing much xenophobic repartee, but John tried hard to diffuse the situation before it got too out of hand. Anyway, this was a one-off as everyone else, to a man or woman, was friendliness in the extreme. The ice fall was excellent, but soured by this incident – and by the fact that partial incapacitation had deprived me of my lead!
Now Terry, I am sure, was scheming to get us to outreach ourselves and fall off since he now suggested that we attempt the Louise Falls (nobody else mind you, just John and me!). Well the gauntlet had been thrown down and John could not wait to pick it up. So we got dropped off at Lake Louise, walked across the frozen lake and confronted the falls. Awesome I believe they say in the States, but then we had nowhere else to go. 110m of Grade 4+/5 (Scottish VI) and we were the first to arrive. I led off and John took the second pitch. The third pitch, steep in the extreme led to an ice cave – entered by a left-hand belly flop, which is none too easy on ice. Relief as I brought up John and admired the vista through the ice cave. John exited through the 'side door' onto vertical ice flutes and belayed on a plateau just above. I completed the final pitch with something less than elegance (was it fear or simply exhaustion?) to gratefully belay at a sturdy tree. Having completed the climb I felt that Grade 6 (Scottish VII) would be a grade too far, but fortunately nobody suggested to John that we try one!
The next day John and I got taken ski touring by Inka, an attractive Norwegian lady, married to a Canadian guide. It was good practice for my forthcoming trip, but hard work nonetheless. We left Lake Louise (Fisherman Creek area) and toured to Boulder Col at which point John adjourned to the half-way hut while Inka and I continued to Deception Col, a total height gain of 510m over 6 km. Feeling the effort and being met by an icy head wind we decided not to descend to the next hut, but to collect John and return back to the car.
Once again ice climbing called and this time we selected Guinness in the Yoho National Park area. This climb, 240m of Grade 4 (Scottish V) is another local classic (there seem to be hundreds of these). We did not have the climb to ourselves, but the attractive ladies climbing just behind were a very pleasant distraction, especially since I now have the address of one of them!! By this stage we were not at all phased by steep ice, and the climbing was a real delight at the grade. John muttered something about me getting all the best leads, but as usual I tried to ignore him and made sure that I was always ready to lead well before him. Something to do with getting older and so little time I suppose, but he's a canny fellow and I didn't always get away with it.
On to my final day now, but John has another week. This time we are taking the 'youngster' Tony under our wing and climbing Cascade Waterfall near Banff as a rope of three. This classic has been on the agenda for a little while now, but being avalanche prone we, and others, have left it well alone until now (a couple died on it just before we arrived). At 300m and Grade 3 this is a great middle grade climb, but it was showing signs of wear and was a trifle thin at the crux. An interesting feature – or at least I felt so – was a large transparent window of ice just below the crux beneath which water was insistently rushing. Provided most of the 'fall was attached I was not too worried, but then at this stage up was the only way. A great finish to a brilliant trip in superb company in a lovely location. What more can I say – except that John has just bought some new ice tools to go with his new ice screws, his new ice gloves, his new ………..
Derek
15th March 2000