Cairngorms Feb 2000

Derek, Stuart and Harvey

The party gathered at 11 p.m. for an overnight trip to the Cairngorms. Nine hours later we were pulling on our gear for the walk in to Coire an Lochain with the objective of the Vent, a 350 feet gully graded 2/3. A steep icy slope took us to the start of the gully where Derek led the first and most difficult pitch of the route. A build up of ice and snow around a chock-stone section created a steep wall of soft snow with some ice higher up. Stuart and I watched in admiration as Derek mastered all the technical difficulties and with a certain amount of concern as we saw him kick away all the remaining footholds of snow to leave a nice little overhang. The first pitch mastered, the angle eased and three pitches later we topped out onto the main plateau. As the visibility and the wind varied by the minute we sought a safe way down and with a certain amount of trepidation descended across a snow field to find the bottom of the Coire and the path home. Harvey minus a crampon cover, blown away in the wind and never to be seen again, and a glove ripped from his hand by an errant strap as he removed his rucsack, last seen descending the 350 feet of the Vent at ever increasing speed.

And so to the Hostel and the warmest of welcomes, first from the young French lady warden with a charming Scots accent. Then to the instant and endless cups of tea all at the snap of the fingers, or at least the touch of a button. Just like at home!!! Who said that? I shall be in trouble. We dined like Kings, game bird and red wine for evening meal, and life is good.

An early start on day two and the conditions are even better. We head for the Runnel on Coire an T-Sneachda. A steep ice slope and then we rope up at the foot of the obvious gully. Stuart leads the first pitch on two ropes bringing Derek and I up on single ropes. Derek heads off to lead the second pitch but hesitates after a couple of metres. "Which of you shall I bring up first?" he asks. "Derek, you only have one rope!" Oh! Nice one Derek. Four pitches of very pleasant climbing in excellent conditions and we top out into a howling gale. Just the weather to climb to the top of Cairngorm. The higher we go the harder it gets to stand up let alone stand still. Running with the wind is the only viable option and we seek shelter in the entrance to the weather station at the summit. Already occupied. Stuart evicts the current incumbents but not before discovering that we had, in fact, climbed Central Gully. 450 feet which we graded 1 / 2 and the Runnel was left for another day. Even the descent is an adventure. Sailing along in front of the wind we pass the Ski Lodge where Derek receives a barrage of wolf whistles and waves from the young ladies on the balcony. Another nice one Derek, there's life in the old one yet! Stuart and I pass by later in reflected glory.

With a dodgy ankle I opt for a rest day, but the intrepid two are up early, invoking the wrath of the nice French warden for being noisy before 7 am, and off to tackle the Runnel. Somewhat crest fallen they return after half an hour. The road is closed from overnight snow. The decision is a walk and the Runnel lives to fight yet another day. We set off through Glenmore Forest. Covered with four or five inches of freshly laden snow and in moments of glorious sunshine the forest trees of birch and fir are magnificent. We pass to heather laden moorland and Stuart teaches us to chuckle like a grouse. Stuart and Derek walk the valley of Strath Nethy and a circular walk home while I backtrack to the Hostel to rest the ankle.

Day four and finally the Runnel. 450 feet at grade 2. An early start is thwarted as we wait for the snowploughs to finish. But soon enough we are enjoying the conditions and a superb gully with a narrow chimney finish. Fitness and teamwork have improved during the week and we seem to fly up. There is even time to practise my slip catching as Stuart loses his figure of eight. Plucked from the air with a deft left hand mitt. Not to be beaten and determined to get something past me Stuart hurls down a hex, only for the leader of the next party to act as long stop.

Finally it is over and we head for home. Four superb days.

Harvey