Isis

Cattle Troughs, Swanage

From a ledge just beyond the reach of the turbulent sea, I climbed quickly up a juggy block to beneath an overhang and arranged a nut runner in a good crack. Stepping right beneath the overhang got me at the base of a steep corner. Bridging up this I gained height quickly by means of some high steps. It felt good. I felt safe. So I didn't bother fiddling with a runner in that awkward crack. Just climbed through.

Before I knew it I was below the overhang that capped the corner and 20ft above my runner. Bridging wide. I eyed up the two rusted broken pegs. All of a sudden it didn't feel good. Pegs are normally placed when there is a good chance of falling off and there isn't any other gear. I felt decidedly unsafe.

A thin horizontal crack took a small cam. It didn't look 100% convincing. In went a nut. Clip. Getting gripped. Where next ?

Traverse left. Into a slightly overhanging groove formed by two small hanging aretes. Nothing but space below. And sea. Crucial hold wet. Only slopies for the feet. I can't find any holds around the corner. No wait here's one. And that foot hold there.

Before I knew it I was around the corner trying to get a good bridge for the feet, a decidedly precarious position with only tenuous handholds. A large crack above took my largest cam. But only just. With the cams wide open would it hold a fall ? Valuable finger strength was getting used up just holding my own and I wasted more time swapping the ropes around to prevent rope drag higher up.

Groping above I couldn't find any holds. Moving back to the safety of the corner was not an option. I stepped further right. Better footholds but just as pumpy to hold on as it was slightly overhanging. A good crack for a nut. Tried one… too big. Tried another… too big. Tried another… too small. Shit. Getting freaked. Calf muscles shaking badly. Nightmare.

Looking up from this angle I saw a small spike of rock sticking straight out. I couldn't use it from here but from the groove it was obviously the key. Stepping back into the groove I reached high up with my left hand in a backward grip. I stepped my right foot up. A big step. A bit of a stretch. Too far. A smear on some rough limestone. And hauled away. More handholds appeared just in time. Bridging again with the feet kept the weight on the hands down. But I was getting seriously pumped.

A good crack was in reach. No.2 cam sunk in solid. That's better. Composure a little more under control. Nice hand jam. Pull and step. Top in sight. Only a few more moves.

Sting in the tail ? You bet ! As the angle eased the holds disappeared once more to give a couple of thin moves in the loose hold roulette zone.

Cracked it !! ................... "Safe !"

Trev